Barbarian Days
ISBN-13:
9781472151414
Veröffentl:
2016
Erscheinungsdatum:
10.05.2016
Seiten:
499
Autor:
William Finnegan
Gewicht:
402 g
Format:
198x123x35 mm
Sprache:
Englisch
Beschreibung:
'A masterpiece that recalls early James Salter' Geoff Dyer, ObserverSurfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.'Breathtaking' New York Times'Luscious' Ed Caesar, Guardian
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