An eclectic mix of exciting stories every surfer will loveThis eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches.Be thrilled by legendary surfers like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots. There are fascinating encounters with surfing's true characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie's famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip.Travel from giants like California's Maverick's and Maui's Jaws to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring-do of a man like Colonel 'Mad Jack' Churchill. Turn the pages to flick between the left and rights of Britain, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between.Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and some are illustrated with colour photographs.

Preface xiPart One Going to ExtremesChild's Play? Definitely Not 3Hold Down 7Surviving the Atom Blaster 12Oh My God (Take 1) 18Size Matters 23Part Two Tragic TalesIn Memory of Andy Irons 31Veitch: RIP 36QED 40The Peterson Problem 44Part Three When the Big Stuff BitesA Bite out of Burle 51People in Car Crashes Don't Stop Driving 55Bare Hands and Bombs 59The White Zone 66Part Four Gonzo InterludeBeing Dave Rastovich 75A Thrust Too Far 87Do You Know Russell Winter? 92Four Surfers and a Painting 98Part Five Contests and CommunitiesHigher than a High Five 105Black Clouds and Bellyboards 109Bad Boy Bobby and the New York Quiksilver Pro 114The Big M 120Lord Thurso, Cool in Caithness 123A Debt at Dungeons 126After Rio Breaks 133Part Six Worldwide WavesSeven Ghosts 139Hokkaido - The Rights of Passage 1451,300 Miles for a Wave 150Ed's Left, aka the Spot with No Name 153Loco on Lobos 157The Lady in the Emerald Green Bathing Dress 162Purring thanks to 'Da Cat' 168Part Seven ObsessionPeg Leg Rik 175Soldiers Get Stoked 179The Daily Wavester 182The Amazing Mr Slater 186Part Eight InspirationStoked 193Colonel 'Mad Jack' Churchill 195OMG (Take 2) 199Dr Sarah and the Meaning of Surfing 204Acknowledgements 208